41. SERRA PELADA 1

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A farmer finds a gold nugget at the south of Pará

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Gold diggers invade the farm

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40 thousand men dig the hill, turning it into a crater called “Serra Pelada”

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VARELA IN SERRA PELADA – PART 1

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Wait, where’s my tie?

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No, no, wait… Hello there, dear Abril Video spectators,

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once again with you,

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your reporter Ernesto Varela.

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It’s 6:30 am and I’m at the Serra Pelada gold mine.

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The diggers are already coming to work

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to find gold that, as you may know,

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is the number 79, yellowish, ductile, 

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little reactive element, used in precious alloys.

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Let’s go there to check how they find the gold, let’s go.

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Here, near the mine, a curious, sterile and temporary city

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was formed, and it’s inhabited by 40 thousand men.

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They form small groups or families

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and built their wooden shacks across the hill.

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Therefore forming this chaotic urban area.

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As you can see, the city’s got approximately

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the size of Disneyland!

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This is the main square in this city inhabited by men.

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That’s it, dear spectators, there are no women in here,

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nor children or elders. Here you can clearly see

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the importance of women.

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The streets are really filthy, there are no plants around,

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no trees, no flowers, there’s only dirt all over…

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I also would like to apologize, dear spectators,

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for not wearing a tie today.

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The thing is Waldecy forgot to bring

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my little suitcase and it was left in Belém do Pará.

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Let’s see if I can buy a tie somewhere in here.

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Let’s go, Waldecy!

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Bamburrados’ store,

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let’s see what one can buy in here.

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We have jewels, watches and cigarettes in here, look,

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cheap cigarettes…

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Do you have any ties to sell in here?

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We don’t sell ties in here, because no one…

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I have no tie, let’s keep… Thanks.

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Do you know somewhere where I could buy a tie around here?

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– No, I don’t.
– I’ll take a look around, then. Let’s go.

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I finally found a tailor’s,

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let’s see if I find a tie.

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Hey, buddy! Do you have any ties, sir?

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I don’t have any.

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– You don’t.
– Nope.

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Well, Waldecy forgot my tie in Belém do Pará

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and I’m looking for a new one.

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What kind of clothes do you make here in Serra Pelada, sir?

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Pants, shirts.

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You only wear nice clothes out of the mine, to take a walk around?

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Yeah, anything you wear around here is fine.

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– Is it?
– It is.

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You don’t have to dress well around here, do you?

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No, you don’t. Just look at the “melechetes” in the street.

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“Melechete”? What is a “melechete”?

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Don’t you see them?

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Melechete is someone who’s covered in mud,

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poorly dressed, you know?
– That’s it.

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Come here, Waldecy, let’s check Serra Pelada’s

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barber shop, what hairstyle is in fashion around here

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in Serra Pelada.

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How much is for a cut here in Serra Pelada?

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10 thousand.

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And what’s the most popular hairdo

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among population in here?

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There’s the new wave…

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– New wave?
– Yeah, the new wave is in fashion, you know.

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People here in Serra Pelada like to do

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the new wave hairstyle?
– They like it a lot. A lot.

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Are you doing the new wave n there?

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– The new what?
– Are you doing the new wave hairstyle?

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No, I’m having a perm.

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– Oh, you’re having a perm.
– Yep.

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Are you concerned with your looks,

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about looking good here in Serra Pelada?

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– No, I don’t.
– Don’t you?

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No. We do some stuff, but the thing is

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you don’t need much around here.

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Is it because there’s not much women around?

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Yeah, when you go to the big town, you take a shower,

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you dress well…
– You try to look good.

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– You try to look good.
– Alright then.

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You look inelegant around here!

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Don’t you try to dress well?

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No? You don’t have to dress well?

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– No, we don’t.
– This is not the style in here,

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we have our own style.
– Is this Serra Pelada’s style?

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– Yeah, this is Serra Pelada’s way.
– The gold digger style!

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Fashion in Serra Pelada is about a dirty pair of shoes…

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Exactly.

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A pair of pants…

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And a t-shirt!

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We also wear the boroca in here.

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Oh, look, in Serra Pelada it is fashionable

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to wear a boroca, which is this little purse

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hanging in there.

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Where did you buy this boroca?

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– Right there, ate the Peladão’s.
– Peladão’s?

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– Yep.
– Do they have ties at Peladão’s?

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No, they don’t.

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Ties? We don’t wear ties around here.

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– I do, boy!
– No, no one wears that in here.

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In a city inhabited by men only,

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it’s normal to exist some trade fairs.

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This city’s trade fair

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happens in this corner right here.

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– You’re trading…
– A necklace.

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– A necklace for what?
– For a watch.

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– A watch. Do you have the watch?
– Yes, the watch.

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– What’s the necklace, let me see it.
– There it is.

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This necklace for that watch. Are you trading it?

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I am.

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– Are you trading it too?
– Yes, I am.

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What’s that? A steak for a…

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A camera!

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Half a kilo of chicken for eight people,

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this is not fair.

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– Are you all broke?
– Everyone’s broke!

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Can’t you find some gold?

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What gold?! It’s too hard to find it!

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Gold is the thing, but it’s not for any digger, you know.

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What’s the most precious thing you ever found

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here in Serra Pelada?

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Just a really intense pneumonia!

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It’s 6:45 am now	

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and those oxen look sad because they’re about to die.

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Adriano, how many oxen do you kill

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in daily basis here in the mine?

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We kill about 30 oxen every day.

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– To feed how many people?
– Over 40 thousand.

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As you see, Serra Pelada gold mine’s fuel

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is meat. And you, dear vegetarian spectator,

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you can now look to the screen again.

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The city’s entrances and exits

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are controlled by the Federal Police.

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There are only two ways to get here:

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through the airport or through the bus station.

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These are Serra Pelada bus station’s buses,

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look, here.

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The bus lines are Serra Pelada–Divinópolis,

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Curionópolis, Açainópolis and Divinópolis.

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– Are you leaving?
– Yeah!

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– Didn’t it work well?
– Nope!

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– You didn’t find any gold?
– Nope!

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– Did you look for it a lot?
– I did.

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How many kilos did you carry in there everyday?

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Oh boy, I used to carry… 20 soil shovels a day.

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And you couldn’t find a single gold nugget?

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Not even one!

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– Really?
– Yeah.

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– Maybe you didn’t look much for it.
– It’s not that…

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– Where are you going to?
– Pindaré!

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– Pindaré?
– Yeah!

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– Have a nice trip!
– Bye!

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He almost lost his bus – look there, the buses, Waldecy!

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The buses are leaving with the broke diggers

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who didn’t find any gold!

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Bye, buddy!

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There’re too many disillusioned Brazilians

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leaving Serra Pelada everyday,

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so many other deluded Brazilian

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may arrive right in the next day

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so they can get an authorization card as a digger.

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To get an authorization as a gold digger you need:	

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Three 3X4 cm photographs, CPF, CIC and the Id.

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What time did you arrive in line?

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– It was around 8:30 am.
– Of yesterday, you mean?

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– Yes, of yesterday.
– To get your authorization card…

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– To get my card today.
– Alright. Congratulations, congratulations.

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There’s a 24 hours line here in Serra Pelada,

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dear spectators,

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and you’re complaining about the INPS’ line in there!

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There’re more lines! A line to get a CPF, to make a phone call,

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a line to the syndicate, a line to the cooperative,

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a line to sell gold. And a line to cure yourself of malaria.

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This is Serra Pelada’s post office building.

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Hey buddy! What are you looking for in here?

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– A letter.
– If a letter arrived?

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– Did you find your name in there?
– Not at all,

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she wants me to die in here!

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– Whose letter you’re waiting for?
– Huh?

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– Whose?
– My wife’s.

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– She didn’t write anything?
– Not yet.

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– She didn’t?
– No, she wants me dead. I’m here for six months now,

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and she didn’t write anything.

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– Where does she live?
– In Belém.

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– And did you wrote to her?
– I did.

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– Do you miss her?
– I do, a lot, especially in this awful situation.

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Why do you think she didn’t write anything?

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Maybe her letter didn’t get here in Serra Pelada…

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It’s because I didn’t send any money,

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she might be angry. That’s why.

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– Do you think she left you?
– I don’t know…

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You came here for the gold, did you find some at least?

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Not a nugget.

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All these gold diggers gather in the evening

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here in Serra Pelada to see the line-up

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of the fearless hope platoon,

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where Brazilians full of patriotic spirit

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show how the true Brazilian soul look like.

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You must wondering

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 “why does Varela just don’t show any gold”. Well,

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I’ll only give you some gold next week

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in the second part of our report,

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Brazil’s Conquest of the West.

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– No, it’s a conquest of the North.
– Yes, I mean,

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you mean a conquest of the west.

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– It’s the north.
– I know. But “west” is way cooler.
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– It’s the north.
– “West” is more exciting…